Living in Spandau, Berlin
A city within the city. Spandau has its own history, a Renaissance citadel, its own identity — residents talk about going "to Berlin" when heading downtown.
History and identity
Spandau received its city rights in 1232, well before Berlin. For centuries it was an independent fortress at the confluence of the Spree and the Havel, with a Renaissance Zitadelle (1559-1594) still among the best preserved in Europe. Spandau progressively became a Prussian military stronghold and then a centre of metal and munitions industry (Siemensstadt, on the edge). Annexed to Berlin in 1920, it kept a very strong identity: Spandauers don't feel Berliners, which is why post-reunification street signs officially read "Berlin-Spandau". During the Cold War Spandau was in the British zone and hosted the famous Spandau Prison where Rudolf Hess was held until 1987 (now demolished).
What to expect
A real medieval-Renaissance Altstadt (rare in Berlin, where war destroyed almost everything) with pedestrian streets, low houses, a famous Christmas market. Residential neighbourhoods with terraced houses, 60s-70s blocks, social housing and modern apartments. The population is mostly middle- and working-class Germans, an established Turkish community, some recent immigration. Very few expats. The style is that of a German mid-sized town transplanted: breweries, bakeries, fritters, neighbourhood life.
Transport
S-Bahn S3, S9 (Spandau, Stresow). U-Bahn U7 (Rathaus Spandau terminus, then Altstadt Spandau, Haselhorst). Regional trains RE2, RE4, RE6 from Spandau Bahnhof — fast link to Hauptbahnhof in 8 minutes. Buses M32, M37, X33. Centre in 20-25 minutes. Excellent for cycling: paths along the Havel.
What to do in the neighbourhood
Zitadelle Spandau — Renaissance fortress open to visitors, now museum and venue for summer concerts (Citadel Music Festival). Altstadt Spandau — pedestrian medieval heart with the Nikolaikirche (1240) and restored merchants' houses. Spandau Christmas Market (one of Berlin's biggest and most traditional). Havelufer — riverside walk with boats to Tegel and Wannsee. Carl-Schurz-Straße main shopping street. Stadttheater Spandau and traditional pubs (Kolk with breweries). Spandauer Forst for jogging. Wröhmännerpark on the Havel.
Who it's ideal for
German families seeking space, affordable prices and a real-town atmosphere with identity. Commuters using the fast regional train to the centre. Older residents. Long-standing Turkish families. Less suited to those wanting an international Berlin atmosphere, vegan restaurants, techno clubs — here Berlin is elsewhere.