Living in Centrum, Łódź
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The centre around Piotrkowska: tenements, factory palaces and the street where the whole city goes out.
Centrum is the middle of Łódź, and Piotrkowska Street runs straight through it. The street was laid out in the 1820s when the textile town was being planned and it has been the spine of the city ever since: a long commercial axis lined with tenements and the houses the factory owners built for themselves.
What it is
A dense district of nineteenth-century tenements on a regular grid, with Piotrkowska as the main axis and the grand buildings of the industrial era scattered through it. Behind the street fronts are courtyards, some restored and some derelict, which is the characteristic Łódź experience.
Condition varies more here than in most Polish city centres, because the city has been running a long revitalisation programme and it has not reached everywhere.
Who lives here
A broad mix: students, young professionals, artists and film school people, long-standing residents. Because rents are low the centre is genuinely affordable, which is unusual.
What it's like during the day
Piotrkowska is busy, with shops, cafés and a constant flow of people along its length. Away from it the side streets are quieter and considerably plainer. There is a lot of building work as blocks come up for renovation.
What it's like in the evening
This is where Łódź goes out. The bars, restaurants and clubs concentrate on and around Piotrkowska, and it is lively most nights, more so at weekends. Living directly on the street means noise; one block back it drops away.
Getting around
Trams run along the main axes and reach the whole city. Łódź Fabryczna station is at the eastern edge. The centre is flat and walkable, and cycling is easy.
Eating and shopping
The widest choice in the city, at low prices. Supermarkets and small shops for daily needs, and a long strip of restaurants and cafés along Piotrkowska.
When NOT to pick it
If you want quiet, or a building in good condition without checking carefully. The stock is old, heating can be expensive and courtyards vary from beautiful to grim. It is the right choice if you want to be in the middle of the city's life at a rent that would not get you a room in Warsaw.