Living in Navigli, Milan

The Navigli take their name from the navigable canals that cross the area: the Naviglio Grande and the Naviglio Pavese, which flow together into the Darsena, Milan's old port near Porta Ticinese. The Naviglio Grande is one of the oldest navigable canals in Europe - dug from the end of the 12th century, it connected Milan to the Ticino and Lake Maggiore and also carried the marble used to build the Duomo. The Naviglio Pavese, completed in 1819, instead runs down towards Pavia. Leonardo da Vinci, in the service of Ludovico il Moro, did not build the Naviglio Grande (which predates him by three centuries) but perfected the system of locks of the Milanese network. The Darsena, once a commercial dock, was redeveloped in 2015 into a long pedestrian waterfront, and is today the heart of the district's evening life.

Who lives here

A mix of long-standing Milanese, young professionals, creatives, students and expats drawn by life on the canals. The area has artisan and working-class roots - the lavandai who washed clothes along the canal, the port workers - but for decades it has been one of the most sought-after and lively residential areas of the city, with artists and creatives alongside the bar scene.

By day

Quiet and photogenic. By day the Navigli are walks along the water, cafés and workshops. The Naviglio Grande side is the most touristy; the Naviglio Pavese side is calmer, more residential and neighbourhood-like. On the last Sunday of every month the Mercatone dell'Antiquariato winds along the towpath of the Naviglio Grande with hundreds of stalls. The Vicolo dei Lavandai, a small historic open-air wash-house used until the end of the 1950s, is worth a stop.

By night

Very lively. Darsena and Naviglio Grande are among the hubs of Milanese aperitivo and nightlife: from 7pm onwards bars, venues and music fill up, especially from Thursday to Sunday. It is one of the most "nocturnal" areas of the city - wonderful to live in, but at a cost in terms of noise and crowds.

Getting around

The M2 green line at the Porta Genova FS stop is the main connection to the heart of the Navigli; Romolo (also M2) is a second stop further south. The trams 2, 9 and 10 serve the area. The M4 blue line has the Coni Zugna and California stops 10-15 minutes' walk from the Naviglio Grande, and touches its south-western end at the San Cristoforo FS terminus: for nightlife, however, the reference stop remains Porta Genova. The Duomo is 20-25 minutes on foot, even less by bike along the towpath. The Area C charge applies and on-street parking is scarce.

Eating and shopping

The offering is very dense and revolves around the aperitivo: bars, trattorias and restaurants along the canals, with dinner on the water as a distinctive feature. Once a month the antiques market takes over the towpath. For everyday shopping you rely on the supermarkets and shops of the inner streets, quieter than the canalside.

When NOT to choose it

If you are looking for peace and quiet. The Naviglio Grande is the noisiest stretch: music until late, pavements occupied by tables and standing customers, dense crowds at weekends from spring to autumn. The area is also very touristy. Those who want the canal atmosphere but with more calm can aim for the Naviglio Pavese side, more residential.

The Navigli work for those who are young, creative or newly arrived in the city and want life on the water and aperitivo on their doorstep. Those looking for tranquillity or a more family-oriented setting are better off in nearby Porta Genova-Ticinese (more design and less noise) or in the quieter Porta Vittoria.